A few months ago we took our students on a field trip to Kampung Betawi. The Betawi people are to Java what the African Americans are to America. During the time when the Dutch controlled Indonesia, it was the Orang Betawi[1. Orang: meaning people, Betawi: meaning of Batavia - what the Dutch called Jakarta.] that built Jakarta. During that age the Betawi were viewed as second-class citizens; not good for much more than labor. However, today, to be Betawi is a proud thing both nationally and culturally.
Not really one single people group, the Betawai are made up of descendants from slaves, sailors, and those that “sinned” against the Dutch colonial government by resisting their authority. Their’s is an ethnicity that stems from Malaysians, Chinese, Dutch, Portugeuse, and Indian. Their’s is a culture as rich and diverse as there islands in Indonesia.[2. Islands: Nearly 17,000 at last count.]
Today the Betawi have a strong cultural identity that ties right into being considered native Jakartans. Every October during the Muslim Holy Day, Idl Fitri, when most of Indonesia is on the move (and on the highway) to kembali ke kampung,[3. Roughly, "return to village".] the Betawi do not need to for they are already home.
Because I am a teacher and wanted to be fully equipped for whatever it was that I were to take part in, I spent the night before our trip cramming like I had a midterm so that I could both ask and answer my student’s good questions. The next day, while we were moving between stations where we made little ondel-ondel,[4. Ondel-ondel: A Betawi-style doll.] played the kulintang,[5. Kulintang: A traditional percussion-style instrument.] and learned to make kerak telur,[6. Kerak telur: A delicious egg-rice combo that is cooked over an open flame, usually being sold on the sides of the street.] I was constantly asking questions to our guides that I generally already had the answer to.
After one of my students snapped the picture at the top of me holding up a piece of the kerak telur I had just cooked myself, they remarked that I should make my own Globe Trekker style TV show. They said that I should be a tour guide (well, other than my GoogleSightseeing.com tours).
Welcome to the first episode of Indonesian Trekker. Here are a few pictures to accompany the day.
Related posts:
Sent to Sandra
Interesting observations Evan…
Especially about the Dutch in Indonesia.
I would remind you of two things:
1. At the end of WWII, the British were in such a hurry to beat the Japanese that they forced the Japanese out of Indonesia, declared Indonesia free, and then left. Since the POW camps were still operational, those outside of the camps took control. When the camps were finally opened up, a year AFTER Indonesia was freed, most of the white population was told to leave. If you had usable skills (doctors, engineers, etc.) then you were forbidden to leave, even if that meant your family was sent packing to another country.
2. Like in all countries. The Victors write the history.
Of course, this being said. I’m sure that not All Dutch landowners were kind caring people. So someplace in the middle lies the truth for us all to dig out.
Keepin’ you all in my prayers…
Piet